He excited everyone in June with his Alternative Set. His men, vaguely hobo and slightly gipsy, were fascinating, playing their music in a bohemian atmosphere with an old yet very modern and welcoming feel. Luca Larenza was one of the finalists of “Who’s on next?” and continues as one of the interesting young names at Pitti Immagine Uomo, where he was back again in January with his new, even more exciting Alternative Set, creating an increasingly more sensorial fashion experience that is not limited to knitwear. We met him for a quick overview of his ideas for this season and next.
Can you briefly describe the s/s 2013 collection for us?
This collection is dedicated to a man who loves travelling, but still wants absolutely elegant details. Natural fabrics in lively, bright colours work perfectly alongside those from a typical tailored male wardrobe. The palette therefore ranges from the most vivid limes via grass greens through to indigo blue, which gives a nod to never-ending sensual expanses of sky. The prints come from mixed and matched abstract and rural language, reminiscent of old abstract canvases. The knitwear is fine once again, while the only trousers present are knitted Bermuda shorts, coordinated with the colours of the collection.
The collection must-have?
I would say that the collection must-have is the very light cardigan in linen and cotton with textured horn buttons, designed especially for the elegant cosmopolitan man.
Just a few words to describe the a/w 2013-14?
The protagonist of the a/w 13-14 collection is the man who wears "urban armour", ready therefore to walk along the streets of the world protected by clothes that explode in intensity thanks to colour palettes ranging from dark yellow, via forest greens through to burgundy reds, all declined in warm melange hues. Knitting processes repeat their importance as the collection must-have, paying tribute to the tailoring tradition of the oldest looms.
A special memory linked to Pitti?
The most amazing memory that still links me to Pitti is definitely having been a Who is on next? finalist. And experiencing the sensation of reaching a milestone in my long career as a creative and designer. Added to this, the two editions of Alternative Set have had a positive impact on me and on my creativity, giving me the chance to express my concept of art also in different exhibition formulas. Pitti for me is a synonym of absolute quality and I hope I will continue to be part of the new ideas at the fair.