He was a “Who’s on next?” finalist and is one of the names that stands out from the new generation of Italian fashion designers, having the ability to create a refined, erudite, sophisticated feminine figure that shuns shifting trends and fancy frills, thanks to Gianni Serra’s preference for pure lines and sobriety that are the result of in-depth study of fabrics and shapes. After having won the Campari Red Passion Prize last September during the Vogue Fashion Night Out, picked by Vogue.it readers, this Sardinian-born designer was one of those who took part in the new Super fair in Milan, where he stood out for his tailored-look collection, showing an inclination for multi-layering and a colour palette where black and white have the lion’s share. We met him and asked him to tell us about his latest articles.
Can you briefly describe the s/s 2013 collection for us?
I wanted a collection made from light, to dress the body in pureness and radiance. Playing with masculine and feminine I decided to use the jacket and the Tee as the pivots around which the whole collection would rotate, broken down and transformed to create an image where conventional structures take on contemporary new shapes and volumes. I wanted the element of light to be fundamental for the materials too, fine fabrics, sheer, loose weaves, cotton, linen, silk muslin, jersey and barely-there tulle, teamed with matt suede, micro-sequins and transparent latex film. Materials that absorb and reflect the intensity of light. Colours see a prevalence of white, warmed by a soft shade of sand and putty pink that contrast with compact solid navy blue.
The collection must-have?
For the spring, definitely all the garments with a structure made from multiple segments as, even if they have a fairly complicated construction, they are perfect for lots of different occasions of wear.
Just a few words to describe the f/w 2013-14?
Constructed lines with a tailored feel blend with the sinuous lines of the female body, sinuous precise volumes create a series of austere graphics. Clean-cut and oversize shapes combine in layers and contrasts, offering glimpses of skin as if to accentuate softly whispered femininity. In this game of opposites, fabrics range from alpaca to cashmere, from masculine wools to silk, from cotton to leather and fur. Colours are synthesised to the max, well-defined hues and contrasts that mix together: absolute black, dazzling white with flashes of grey and burgundy.
A special memory linked to Pitti or Super?
Definitely the emotion of my first presentation in Milan organised at Super thanks to Pitti Immagine.