Born in Trieste in 1985, after school in Italy he flew to Antwerp to study fashion at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Then he was assistant to the fashion genius Walter Van Beirendonck and finalist with his project at the Its competition held every year in Trieste. But since 2010, Andrea Cammarosano has had a menswear line that bears his name, he has also designed Ice Uomo for Iceberg, which in turn took him not only to the finalist stage in the June 2012 competition “Who’s on next? Uomo” at Pitti Immagine, but also saw him receive a special mention from the jury and a prize from Yoox.com, for which he has created a capsule collection on sale online since last September. We met him and asked him to tell us about his latest collections.
Can you briefly describe the s/s 2013 collection for us?
It is a collection inspired by dandies and the antique world of marbled prints, those used for binding books. “Invisible Bestfriend”, like other works of mine, has figures that emerge from the past, like the late nineteenth-century traveller, for example, with his “safari” suit, or the trench inspired by a redingote – reworked however in a colourful informal key. One inspirational figure was Giacomo Casanova, whose diaries tell of improbable fantastic adventures. I wanted to pay tribute to his geniality and humour with my unstructured deformed prints, dandy mood and super-colourful styling.
The collection must-have?
The printed cotton voile shirt with relative big Casanova book of Memoires.
Just a few words to describe the f/w 2013-14?
A different collection that I presented in Paris in January, more intimate and silent, mainly comprising soft warm fabrics and delicate shapes. While last summer my muse was Casanova, this winter it was Rudolph Nureyev, a man who lived a life that was half reality and half dreams, a painful duality, just like his defection from the Soviet Union. This story is translated into the sheer fabrics I used, above all with white-on-white prints, but especially in laminating soft fabrics like cashmere, making them stiff and waterproof or in the use of metal-weave cloths, in contrast with angora gauzes. Plus cashmere tank tops and a very innovative model base. I was sponsored by Alcantara, who provided some fabulous laser cut work on their wonderful fabrics.
A special memory linked to Pitti?
The kindness and attention of Lapo Cianchi, Raffaello Napoleone and all the members of the jury and the torrid summer heat. I also remember a delicious Florentine T-bone steak and the friendliness of the other participants, being really excited and smiling a great deal.