Post Pitti? Over to the Fashion Insiders

Fashion / Music / Design / Graphics / Photography / Performance By Stefano Guerrini

What are we left with after something like the Pitti trade show? After four full-on days, packed with events, presentations, shows and a whole host of collections, what we take away are trends and ideas, the labels and the names that wowed us, and the fashion directions that are worth focusing on. We contacted a group of journalists and fashion writers, regulars at Pitti Immagine Uomo for several seasons now and with a keen eye for good quality and for what’s new on the vast fashion market, and asked them what they liked most about this edition. Here’s what they said!

Real Nob, Leonardo Iuffrida & Alessandro Mancarella, blogger

Around the world for men in 4 days. Once again Pitti dazzles and amazes, with an exploration of brand new, completely original styles. Blown gently by Eastern winds, we set sail on a journey to Turkey, the guest nation for the spring/summer 2014 edition, which features amazing designers such as Niyazi Erdoğan, Hatice Gökçe, Emre Erdemoğlu, Zeynep Tosun, Aslı Filinta, Elif Cığızoğlu and Deniz Kaprol, plus accessories by RUMISU. That’s not all. Another talented designer from Turkey is Serdar Uzuntas, whose fresh, bold collection seems to have been created from the colours of the sky and is presented amidst jets of water and models with rippling muscles. Staying by the seaside, Stefano Ughetti for Camo has created an elegant collection of clothes that are inspired by the gorgeous flowery landscape of Biella. The 1st pat-rn label meanwhile brought an early 20th century Saharan feel to the show. With their exceptional creative talent and (now famous) exquisite retro hats, oh-so-Italian trio Superduper Hats were the rightful winners of the Who’s on Next competition. Originally from Italy but now based in London, Matteo Molinari is an emerging star in the world of elegant, men’s couture. MSGM then took us to California and the 1990s, where we were wowed by tie-dye pieces and dazzling colour. So what was the key theme in this amazing journey through style? Love of colour and daring to wear. 

Lucia Del Pasqua, fashion writer (including shopping map), blogger for and for
When it comes to giving an opinion on Pitti Uomo I have my “formal” stock answer: “It’s always a pleasure”. And it is because, aside from the men in jackets and ties trying to get easy shots on the wall by the main entrance in 40-degree temperatures, Pitti Uomo kick starts the senses. It’s a breath of fresh air (metaphorically of course) and a feast for the eyes. You chat away to buyers, bloggers, stylists, and designers until your tongue almost falls off, you walk so much you can’t feel your legs any longer, and you get to enjoy yourself because there’s none of that Fashion week stress and nobody races off; the stands are there for a good four days. I’ve seen loads of interesting things, starting with DueDiLatte t-shirts made from semi-skimmed, full-fat and rice milk fibres; in addition to their special material, the t-shirts also feature a unique creative concept and each is printed with an image connected to Tuscany, either a wine map or a quirky picture of the Carrara marble quarry. 
A hotchpotch of trash, kitsch fur, rubber and other randomly chosen materials, Not of this Earth bags are guaranteed to have an effect on everyone (not just me!) whether you like them or not. I am certain that I’ll soon be seeing them out front at Fashion Week. Then there were PT trousers with cartoon lining and bicycle print (I LOVE bikes), Il Bisonte bags with their classic, clean design, Verba slippers with bubble-wrap pattern and, finally, Kinloch ties and clutches with Sumo wrestler and hen prints. 
Marta Casadei lifestyle editor of Rivista Studio and writer for Il Sole 24 Ore and

Pitti is an absolute must for all those who work in fashion and edition number 84 was no less than expected. The show confirmed Pitti Uomo’s central role as an international showcase for men’s fashion, where small and medium sized Italian manufacturing businesses take centre stage, as well as its role as a unique platform for young talent too. I personally liked the Pitti Italics project, which is designed especially to spotlight young designers such as MSGM, who each season continues to establish itself as a cutting-edge Italian label, as well as Aquazzura and Stella Jean, who presented her first menswear collection at Pitti. Backing young generations of designers and giving them the possibility to show their creations to buyers and international journalists is crucial. In the same vein, this edition’s Who is On Next prize recognised collections that pair high quality products with flawless design, such as hand-made hats by Super Duper Hats and CasaMadre shoes. Gentlemen of Istanbul should get a special mention, a project put together in partnership with the Turkish Chamber of Fashion and the main association of the fashion and textiles industry in Turkey, which was guest nation at the 84th edition of Pitti. Seven young Turkish talents showcased their collections at Pitti and used these pieces to illustrate the sense of style and manufacturing know-how that make Turkey an important global player. Important and, above all else, developing.

Barbara Tassara, lifestyle & fashion journalist Uomo Collezioni (Menswear)
'Metropolitan chic': defining the modern way of dressing for men. Practical and relaxed, but very well-groomed. Clothes designed for the city, for travelling, for an evening party after work and for the weekend. As British designer Tom Dixon suggests with his limited edition collection of garments and accessories for Y3 (Yohji Yamamoto), “You’ve got to be ready to go from 2am parties to 9am meetings and clothes must be able to adapt to multiple situations”. Versatile jackets and clothing made by Lardini with designer Gabriele Pasini, Boglioli jackets, flowery or art-inspired eco-friendly trousers by Haikure, and Baracuta’s classic navy jackets. Cutting-edge style and technology come together in G-Star Raw denim, for BBWashed 'Tartan Rock' sneakers by Bruno Bordese, and in yellow and orange neoprene accessories designed by Momo Design and dedicated to motorbikers. Contemporary heritage charm with practical 50s Eastpak bags in military canvas and with camouflage prints and the The Bridge line, dedicated to business travelers. It’s a scuffle on the pitch with this summer seeing the arrival of new beach and sport shorts from Hawaiki (a classic for professional rugby players) and board shorts from Quicksilver Original, which made surfing legendary.
Sara Moschini, fashion editor
After so many editions of Pitti Immagine Uomo, it might seem hard to find anything new to say or to summon up the same level of enthusiasm for the latest lace-up shoe, but that’s not the case. It isn’t like that because going back to Pitti is like meeting up with old friends who are keen to show off a new, re-invented look, and discovering new ones, those who have you hopping from stand to stand shrieking, “I want that shirt!” Which is what happened to me when I passed by the ton-sur- ton bird prints by Japanese label Saint Paul, promoter of eye-catching casualwear with a preppy feel. It also happened as I was raking around on Masaki Kyoko’s stand. Short-sleeved shirts, shorts and T-shirts in soft fabrics, ultra-delicate shades, and exquisite yarns; clothes that can be instantly thrown on for a fresh, bright spring. Turning to holidays (at the moment it’s hard to think of much else), I was very impressed by the Poche swimwear. Focusing on the simple but effective idea of a printed pocket, you can avoid all your surplus gear, which does nothing for your style, even on the beach. The boys from Oybō have also had a cute idea by “patenting” the odd sock and transforming an example of absent-mindedness into a subtle on-trend quirk. In the category of “rediscovered old friends” special mention goes to two brands that I and my colleague Gabriele have had our eyes on for a few seasons now: British designers Smith-Wykes, with their minimal, refined masculine wardrobe, and the guys at Orley, who win us over every time with their retro designs that seem to step straight out of a Wes Anderson film. Season after season, thanks to these very brands and thanks to young Italians like 11/un-dici (ever seen their Boys & Girls print shirts? We tracked them down at the Showroom Brini Firenze as the city offers loads in places other than just Fortezza da Basso when the trade show is on) and Two Italian Boys (their cardigan with embroidered cake is already on my wish list) it is always a pleasure to return to Florence, battling the 40-degree temperatures in summer or the 2-degree temperatures in winter in order to find out what men’s fashion has got up its sleeve for us.