Finalist in the latest men’s edition of “Who’s on next?”, held last June in Florence during Pitti Immagine Uomo, Matteo Molinari launched a brand under his own name in 2011, after a Degree in Communications and a Master in Philosophy of Language and Semiotics, both from Bologna University, and a Master in Fashion Design and Technology at the London College of Fashion, which made his career path through the fashion world clearer. The range involves major research into handmade techniques, crochet and craftsmanship firmly rooted in the Italian tailoring tradition, yet the designer’s aesthetic vision, far from retro moods, includes simple, clean lines, and international input taken from worlds distant from that of fashion. As he explains in this interview on his latest collections.
Can you briefly describe the collection F/W 2014?
Traditional tailoring combined with late Seventies/early Eighties vibes. A new David Bowie who leaves old Europe to live in Los Angeles disguised as the Thin White Duke and wears tailored suits, voile and cotton poplin shirts with bow tie neck, long knitted wool cloaks or enriched with cabling. Knitwear in cashmere or merino with cabling and tubing details. Baggy, high-waisted palazzo trousers in contrast with Spencers and sharp-cut shirts.
The must-have of the collection?
Must-have of the f/w collection is the tailored cloak in cashmere-wool mix felt.
A few words to describe the s/s 14? What provided the inspiration?
The collection is based on three elements: tailoring, hand crocheting on a metal mail base and hand-made knitwear. The inspiration comes from the short film by Kenneth Anger, specifically “Scorpio Rising”, with its images of 1970s biker subculture in its “queerest” interpretation.
In general, what provides the inspiration for your work?
It comes from my interactions with people I meet in two very different environments: club-culture and underground queer in London, where I have been living for years, and afternoons spent in Veneto with my ladies doing crochet and knitting while gossiping.
A special memory of Pitti?
The meeting with Franca Sozzani and the fantastic chance to show and talk about my work.