We watched a runway show at AltaRoma just a few weeks ago by this former finalist in the prestigious 'Who's on next?' competition. A scholarship won in Mexico City to study in Italy at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan years ago marked the start, not only of the fashion direction taken by Andres Caballero, but also of his love for Italy. No coincidence therefore that he put the name of the main city in Lombardy into that of his brand, set up in 2006. On the eve of his participation in Super, we meet the designer of San Andrès Milano.
Can you tell us about your s/s 2014 collection?
With flowers and sparkly patterns, the collection is inspired by a small paper doll called Lupita, a traditional Mexican toy that depicts a little girl in a colourful costume decorated with hand-painted flower designs, white socks and little black shoes. This s/s collection breathes relaxed allure, light-filled but above all joyful, that mixes apparent respectability and cheekiness; the silhouette is stiff for outerwear and soft for shirts and dresses in silk that float with layers of material.
The collection must-have?
The colour-block silk shirt.
You will be bringing articles for f/w 14-15 to Super, can you tell us about them?
The collection pays tribute to the famous actress and emblem of the golden age of Mexican films, Maria Felix, a woman with a perturbing beauty due to her steely gaze and strong, determined personality. The perfect dichotomy of past and present, masculine and feminine, steeped in neo-retro feel allure. The silhouette becomes oversize for tailored coats and jackets, embellished by details in fur and hand embroidery. The main player in this collection is the texture of the materials, such as wool crêpes and lamé jacquard prints with a marbled effect that cleverly accompany each garment, creating generous soft structures. Again in this collection, block colours with a fifties feel stand out for wide skirts below the knee.
Where does your input for the collections come from?
From continual research into the creation of new volumes, combinations and ways of interpreting a contemporary style. It all happens when I hold a piece of fabric and start to drape it around the mannequin.. slowly but surely, with pins and scissors, the garment takes shape. And then it is the little details that make all the difference.
What do you think is the importance of fairs like Super?
It is a real container for emerging youngsters in Italian fashion where we can show off our work. I am honoured to be a part of Super Talents.