With his Studiopretzel line, Emiliano Laszlo took part in Pitti a few seasons ago. His constant efforts, research into materials and culturally stimulating inspiration, from Japanese culture to the martial arts he practises, not to mention a clean design that recalls Northern European style, without straying from his roots in Italian creativity, have seen him gain many, many fans. We met him at the most recent Pitti Uomo as one of the finalists in the contest Who’s On Next? to find out more about his latest offerings. Our conversation reveals Laszlo’s precise and sharp vision of fashion.
How has the line changed in recent years?
The Studiopretzel collections always seek to be consistent in their main leitmotif. It is important for there to be a recognisable style in each season, but often a fabric or even a strong inspiration changes the story and adds new and vibrant elements, which are nonetheless consistent.
Tell us about the collection for f/w 2014-15.
The winter collection springs from a strong personal impetus, namely the uniform that my father wore as a young man in the army. The idea then developed thanks to the input of Augusto Titoni, the Tuscan artist and designer, who with his washes and prints transformed the military inspired pieces into something unique and real.
What are the main features of what you took to Pitti for s/s 15?
The focal point of the summer collection is interchangeability. In fact, one part of the garments is made to be unisex, from the jumpsuit to the large shirts there is a definite desire to make this fashion easier to wear, but with a careful eye on hand crafted detail and particular fabrics.
What is the collection’s must-have?
Definitely one of the garments made in upholstery fabrics, like the waistcoat or the Bermudas, and then of course there’s the unisex jumpsuit.
Where does the inspiration for your work come from?
As far as I am concerned, inspiration must come from different directions. Often I happen to put elements from other disciplines, like photography, into the collections. The challenge is to convey the message without being restricted to just research in one sector, but leaving the mind open.
A memory from your participation in WION?
I really liked the photo shoot with the other finalists. It was important because it made me feel part of a solid group, each one with their differences, but with the same desire. And the same goal.
How important is a fair like Pitti for a young brand like yours?
The importance of the fair is often seen in the contacts that can be made, to then clinch an order. However it is necessary to bear in mind also the strong press presence, which helps to give the product visibility. Of course young designers must be allowed to grow, by being involved in suitable events that help them to enter the market.