Being invited by Pitti Immagine was the perfect opportunity for Veronique Branquinho to do a first live presentation.
Veronique Branquinho looks upon men’s fashion as a selection of indispensable evergreens worn by realistic man, rather than focusing on idols, muses or remote stars. Due to her subtle approach to menswear, Veronique has always been reluctant to do a classical catwalk setting, the Teatro Goldoni enables her to stage an alternative event which presents the collection to it’s full potential. The performance is not shown by professional models, but “real life” men.
Together with choreographer Sam Louwyck, she created a scene, set in an alienating atmosphere, inspired by the “red room” from David Lynch’s Twin Peaks, with its typical zig-zag floor and red curtains.
For Autumn-Winter ’04-’05 she shows brown tuxedos, tuxedos refined by subtle detailing such as contrasting collars in burgundy or brown satin. Moreover she combines these details in perfect harmony with more casual garments: turtleneck jerseys worn under ceremonial shirts with pleated inserts, cumberbands, foulards, ceremonial trimmings on sweatersleeves.
Furthermore she hints at the world of hunters and lumberjacks, using recognisable materials and designs: sharp cut coats in traditional loden with a boxpleat at the rear, waxed cotton trenchcoats, parkas finished with a fake fur trim at the hood and duffelcoats with red sheppard lining.
Checks are predominantly present through the collection: the same red sheppard pattern reoccurs blown up and handknitted in shetland jumpers, in jackets with sheepskin lining and biaiscut details and in wide lumberjack shorts with similar biaiscut details and pleats at the rear.
The concept is emphasized by layering the different checks and knotting both shirts and pullovers around the waist, pants are tucked into the boots.