06 Jan 2014

Events W-D Man

Fashion By Federico Poletti

I started this job, already a "big boy", after a not very useful Masters egree in Law, driven only by a passion that had turned into a profession, working in the mid 90s in Varazze with Massimo Piombo. In the beginning of 2000, I opened in Milan, and later in Paris, Zohar (see doc. attached). In these years I have worked with some major brands, both Italian and foreign. In 2009 I sold the two stores and in 2010 I started working at W-D Man, which debuted in 2011. The period of Zohar was definitely important for me, because I created and produced a lot both clothing and design in the strict sense.

Describe your approach to fashion?
I always start from the raw material: the drapery. Scottish wool (meant as place of production), Irish linens, Italian silks, American cottons ... I would call it a traditional approach, not only for the type of production, but because of how my collection is conceived. Making a metaphor, it’s about finding the right wood for every violin ... this is my approach.
What is for you formal wear and casual wear ? In which of these two categories do u recognize yourself?
I consider formal what responds more closely to the rules of coordination, while informal is what responds to the rules but it’s less tied to the concept of coordination, if not for good taste.
What is experimentation for you?
It’s a key issue. I think it is very important to propose and stimulate the market, as well as necessary. In particular, emerging brands have the great opportunity to offer a new vision of the “state of things" and can do so only through research and experimentation.
For example, I offer an innovative vision of the “formal” man, don’t presenting the suit, but coordinating the jacket and the accessories, or offering a collection of ties to use with unusual knots, more simple and less formal, to give new light to an accessory as fundamental as static for too long now, while still remaining within the tradition. I find it very stimulating.
What about your project for Pitti?
The latest fashion buzz gave me the opportunity to present new jackets made in Italy with mastery, using very exclusive English wool. From Shetland in macro houndstooth, to harris tweed, to Donegal tweed in silk and wool, through the wool flannels in a very light gray, and very hard to find, or in London smoke. Completely empty models, "unstructured", almost cardigans (jacket out); and models, instead, light as well but covered with canvas for garments more strictly elegant (jacket in).
What is Pitti Uomo for you and the chance to be in Florence?
An important occasion. Pitti Immagine Uomo it’s the best reality in the world in our industry, a worldwide excellence. To be able to present my work within this universe means to be part of, and it’s not a little thing.