Andrea Incontri, two years after winning Who Is On Next? UOMO, has debuted with his women’s collection at Milan fashion week.
On show is a woman with an extra-feminine twist but at times is quite rigorous: garments built on kimono details borrowed from oriental memories whose roots are base in the art of dressing in the style of the Rising Sun. The geometry becomes romantic and mixes with the materials which are a collision of technical piquet and gauze, extremely clean graphic lines and volumes. For this women’s collection, the designer begins a journey through prints. On the garments, the star is the hydrangea, a flower born in the East, deeply linked to the memory of women as a symbol of sophisticated elegance. The silhouettes are designed with attention to detail in order to tell of the dynamism of the modern rhythm but also a desire for femininity which alternates the tight warped bustier-dresses with diamonds with long, flowing and transparent evening dresses. The volumes are often oversized: in the blouses and tunics with square lines, in the short and baggy trousers, in the Bermuda shorts inspired by male boxer shorts and in the mini-jackets with kimono sleeves.
Starting with pure white, the colour palette includes soft and innocent shades – sky blue, wisteria, opaque pink which are reminiscent of childhood memories of school books. This chromatic lightness becomes nocturnal in the elegant combinations of dark shades of black and blue, only then to surprise the monochrome with prints of extremely sophisticated floral deconstructions and re-compositions, or thread embroidery with an ancient flavour, tailored individually. Among the must-have pieces is the little black dress with buttons on the rear, created in technical piquet, with a crispy but clean touch, and then the black, urban sandals, for every day wear. A collection that re-confirms Andrea Incontri’s aesthetic code and his structural architecture applied both to clothing and to the world of accessories.