What path is Italian fashion taking? Who are the new protagonists of Italian fashion design? These are the questions that Maria Luisa Frisa wants to answer in her book Una nuova moda italiana, the latest addition to the Moda series published by Marsilio and Fondazione Pitti Discovery. This groundbreaking study focuses on the current generation of Italian fashion designers: a rich and complex group characterized by a new and different way of working.
Maria Luisa Frisa, fashion curator and chair of the degree course in Fashion Design at IUAV in Venice, tries to define the specific role Italian designers play on today’s international fashion scene. “This is not a history of fashion, but an overview of fashion being made,” writes Ms. Frisa, “a sort of movement that exists without knowing it, and that can be visible and comprehensible only when we move back a few steps and look at individual experiences and histories. It is like a constellation that becomes clear when we trace the trajectories of its stars”.
The galaxy – the cover image – is an effective metaphor for this panorama of talents; it is an image that testifies to the success of Italian creativity that has taken Italian fashions all over the world. The metaphor was inspired by the 1981 exhibition “Identité Italienne” held at the Centre Pompidou in Paris: it was an endless galaxy in which the works of different artists came together to form new constellations.
Una nuova moda italiana places the accent on the need for a critical look at contemporary Italian fashions which will also help to understand some of the changes that have come about in the modus operandi of creating fashion in Italy. We see a heterogeneous mix of designers who work in different ways. Some return to a craft-sartorial matrix, others make more direct contact with the identity of a brand and its products tending to personalize it through their own views of things, while others can be considered more experimental and independent because they are trying to define new ways of dealing with industry and thereby contribute to redefining it. Given this methodological basis, it will be no surprise to find so many different names in the book, from the young designers who are working to launch and establish their own labels such as Leitmotiv, Carlo Contrada, Francesco Scognamiglio and Gabriele Colangelo, just to mention a few, to the Italian talents like Riccardo Tisci, Stefano Pilati and Frida Giannini or the team of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli who work for big fashion houses. The book, with its 814 illustrations is the first tool we have for the task of understanding the new creative strategies and esthetics of contemporary Italian fashion.
The book’s protagonists - the fashion designers: Albino, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, Boboutic, Gianluca Capannolo, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, Gabriele Colangelo, Carlo Contrada, Vincenzo De Cotiis, Marco De Vincenzo, Roberta Furlanetto, Bianca Maria Gervasio, Frida Giannini, Massimiliano Giornetti, Sara Lanzi, Leitmotiv, Renato Montagner, Rodolfo Paglialunga, Stefano Pilati, Fabio Quaranta, Mariavittoria Sargentini, Alessandro Sartori, Francesco Scognamiglio, Gianni Serra, Riccardo Tisci, Isabella Tonchi, Giambattista Valli, Franco Verzì, Sergio Zambon, Marco Zanini